As I write my 1,000th column, I am reminded of the most wonderful bites/tastes I have experienced. This recipe for gougères is the perfect one to celebrate, and it was included in a fun new book—“Retro Recipes” by Bobby Hicks—that landed on my desk recently.
Imagine other dishes such as vinegar pie, tomato aspic, biscuits, chicken divan, and those famous JELL-O salads from long ago. “Retro Recipes: Vintage Dishes with a Modern Twist” is a modern cook’s love letter to the past.
These cheesy puffs became popular in the 1960s. They are made from choux (pronounced “shoe”) pastry combined with shredded nutty Gruyère cheese, piped out onto a baking sheet and baked until they become golden-brown puffy gems of deliciousness. I have served these as we sip cocktails or even as a surprise as we begin the meal. They are so good. Try to time these coming out of the oven as your guests have arrived so they can be served hot.
I’ve simplified the recipe to make it easy to follow. While most versions use a wire whisk to combine the ingredients, I find an electric hand mixer works better because it blends the dough more smoothly. Give these a try when you have time to practice your pastry skills, and watch your guests delight in these airy cheese puffs.
Gougères (Cheese Puffs)
Makes about two dozen
- 1 cup water
- 6 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 cup all-purpose flour
- 3/4 teaspoon salt
- 4 large eggs
- 2 cups shredded Gruyère or mild cheddar cheese
- 2 large egg yolks, for egg wash
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F with a rack in the middle position. Place parchment paper on two sheet pans.
In a medium saucepan, heat the water and butter over medium heat until the butter is melted. Add the flour and salt and cook, stirring with a spatula, until a dough forms and a skin begins to appear on the bottom of the pot. Remove from the heat and allow to cool for a couple of minutes.
Using an electric mixer, beat in the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each addition. The batter may look separated at first, but continue mixing until smooth before adding each egg. Mix in the cheese until completely blended.
Spoon or pipe the dough onto the parchment-lined sheet pans in 1 1/2-inch rounds, spacing them two to three inches apart. (Don’t stress if you don’t have a pastry bag. Use a tablespoon or small scooper instead.) Beat the egg yolks to make an egg wash, then brush it over the tops and sides. Bake for about 25 minutes, or until the puffs are golden brown. Let cool for about 15 minutes to crisp slightly, then serve warm.
Recipe notes: Once they are completely cooled, you can store the gougères in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days or refrigerate for up to 5 days. Warm them back up in a 350 degrees F oven for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.
Excerpted from “Retro Recipes: Vintage Dishes with a Modern Twist” by Bobby Hicks. Used with permission of the publisher, The Countryman Press, a division of W. W. Norton & Company, Inc. All rights reserved.
Dear Readers: We would love to hear from you. What topics would you like to read about? Please send your feedback and tips to features@epochtimes.nyc.
