I had only been in the country for a single day, and somehow, jet-lagged and a little bleary-eyed, I found myself at the top of Auckland’s famous Sky Tower. It’s fun and a little thrilling under normal circumstances—just take the elevator up to the glassy observation deck and enjoy the sweeping views over volcanoes and green islands and a shimmering sea.
But this wasn’t that. Instead, I was outfitted in a tidy jumpsuit and stood on an open platform, tethered up and ready to leap from one of the tallest free-standing structures in the Southern Hemisphere. The wind gusted. A moment later, I jumped, plummeting 53 floors at more than 50 miles an hour toward the busy downtown streets below. I stuck the landing.
The adrenaline rush lasted all day.
In my travels to more than 100 countries, I’ve never encountered anything quite like it. But Auckland is like that—filled with surprises and truly unique experiences. It’s New Zealand’s largest city but is still relatively small, with a population of about 1.5 million.
I think that, amongst Australasian cities, Auckland often rests in the shadow of Sydney. It may not have an opera house, and the Harbour Bridge here is a lot smaller, but the City of Sails has plenty to offer. Especially if you know how to best explore it.
A Truly International Airport
A small island country in a far-away part of the South Pacific, New Zealand has, by necessity, developed a truly spectacular aviation system. The national flag carrier, Air New Zealand, is consistently ranked one of the world’s best airlines. I’ve flown with them several times and can testify that they’re excellent, even in economy class. The food is good, the safety videos are genuinely funny, and the on-board crew are the friendliest I’ve encountered over the course of taking thousands of flights.
Auckland Airport (AKL) connects the country to places across the earth. It’ll take you a long time to get there, but from North America you can fly nonstop from New York, Houston, Vancouver, Los Angeles, and San Francisco, with seasonal routes from even more cities.
The airport isn’t far from the heart of town, about 13 miles south of the city center. It’s serviced by the usual transport options (taxis and ride-shares), as well as a handy AirportLink bus service with departures every 10 minutes. That connects to the trains at Puhinui Station, which will take you pretty much anywhere in Auckland.
Summit the Sky Tower (and, Seriously, do the SkyJump)
Rising more than 1,000 feet and the absolute symbol of the city, the Sky Tower is probably the best place to start your Auckland adventures. The dramatic and expansive views from the observation deck give a true lay of the land. You can literally pick out the places you want to visit and plan your trip just by looking out the windows.
The SkyJump will make you feel like a flying superhero. It’s a controlled fall, which means you’re lowered very fast on a wire, reaching the ground in just 11 seconds. If you’re looking for a thrill but not a jump, the SkyWalk tethers you up for a stroll around an exterior platform 629 feet up, with no handrails and the opportunity to lean out over the edge.
Bungee From the Harbour Bridge
If you’ve ever visited New Zealand, you know that Kiwis are largely open, kind, mild-mannered people. But hidden somewhere, deep inside all that friendliness, there lies the fierce heart of true thrill-seekers. (The SkyJump is, of course, evidence of that.)
The country pioneered commercial bungee jumping in 1988 at the Kawarau Gorge Suspension Bridge in Queenstown. Since then, it seems, you can bungee from pretty much anything tall, anywhere in the country.
That includes the Auckland Harbour Bridge. Another symbol of the city, its more than half-mile span carries eight lanes of traffic some 140 feet over the waters of Waitematā Harbour. And, of course, you can bungee jump from it—a thrill I enjoyed on my second visit to the city.
Afraid I would chicken out, I posted a photo of myself in the AJ Hackett jumpsuit on social media before doing the jump. When I got up to the platform, I was so nervous that my stomach was churning. When I shared that fact with the man affixing the bungee cord to my legs, he responded with typical Kiwi wit.
“We call that a code green, mate,” he deadpanned. I leaped, plummeting toward the water and bouncing back, the adrenaline—again—coursing through my veins. (And for the record, I managed not to make it a true Code Green.)
Try the Pies (and Visit Britomart)
There are plenty of activities in Auckland that don’t require you to fling yourself from high places. For example, a visit to Britomart. A transportation hub, it also shares its name with the surrounding neighborhood, which is just a few steps from the main ferry port and marine wharves of the city.
It was once rough and ready but was later disused and left rather desolate. Now, the former warehouses and other hardworking buildings near the port have been converted into boutiques and bakeries and excellent restaurants and a true five-star hotel. On my most recent visit, I spent quite a bit of time just wandering around, chatting with everyone from artists in their studios to fashion designers in their little shops.
This is also where you’ll find the finest pies in the city. Steaming, savory hand pies are a Kiwi staple. Bakers create a crusty base, then fill it with all sorts of delicious things. Minced beef with cheese might be the most traditional, but you can also order up all sorts of other fillings, from smoked fish to butter chicken.
You’ll find the best in Britomart at a simple, tiny spot on a back street called Pie Rolla’s. Don’t wait too long to head there for lunch—the place is so popular, they often sell out of everything on their small, well-curated menu.
Experience the All Blacks
The first thing to understand about rugby in New Zealand is that it’s so much more than a sport. Members of the national team—the All Blacks—are more than celebrities. I’d always wanted to attend a match and see them play, as much to experience the passion of the fans in the stands as the action on the field.
But while I’ve been able to go to regional rugby matches here, international competitions always eluded me. The next best thing is the All Blacks Experience near the base of the Sky Tower. It includes a walk through the history and all that makes this team so special to Kiwis. There’s a replica locker room and a demonstration of the haka at the end, a ferocious and intimidating ceremonial dance once used by warriors to menace opponents before battle and now performed by the All Blacks players before a match.
But, honestly, the best part is that this is a guided tour. You receive really good, in-person explanations and get to see the enthusiasm and fervor of the guides firsthand as they take you through the exhibits.
Spend Time at a Volcano
Auckland’s natural landscape is very dramatic. It’s built on over 53 volcanoes. At several of them, you can still see the lava cone and learn about the massive magmatic forces that created this place.
If you have to choose just one, head to Maungawhau (also known as Mount Eden), the highest point in the city. For centuries, it has been a sacred place to the Maori people. They named the crater—created by a massive eruption 28,000 years ago—Te Ipu-a-Mataaho, for the god of earthquakes and volcanoes. Thousands of people worshipped, worked, and made their lives there. You can still see the terraces on the flanks from that time.
Stop first at the visitor’s center, where you can learn the history and geology of the place and grab a nice flat white at the charming on-site cafe. Then head up to the rim and marvel at the 164-foot-deep crater from the boardwalk. It’s a nice stroll.
Sip the Pleasures of the Wine Island
For me, Waiheke Island really, truly is a wonder. I can scarcely believe that a real Pacific island paradise sits just 45 minutes by ferry from the downtown bustle of Auckland. It’s as if the boat transports you to a whole other world.
On my last trip to the city, just a few months ago, I visited Waiheke twice on back-to-back days. A sign you’ll spot soon after your arrival at Matiatia Wharf really nails it: “Slow down,” it says, “you’re here.”
The green, semi-tropical island, surrounded by aquamarine waters, is home to about 30 wineries. Most have “cellar doors” where you can taste lovely chardonnay, Shiraz, Bordeaux blends, and more. The best way to maximize your experience is to take a food and wine tour. On mine, we visited three wineries as well as an olive oil grove, and had a lovely lunch. The best part, of course, is that someone else does the driving.
I also took a day to just chill, knocking around the island on a random schedule. I spent a nice slice of an afternoon with the surfers and swimmers at Onetangi Beach, a beautiful crescent of sand. I walked along The Strand waterfront, where I sipped a glass of wine and had fresh fish and chips at a seaside pub. All the while, I contemplated what excitement awaited later that evening back in busy Auckland, just a short ferry ride away.
