For a state so small, Rhode Island certainly seems to have an inordinate number of special dishes. Chef T.J. Delle Donne came to Rhode Island 30 years ago and studied culinary arts at Johnson & Wales University in Providence. As an undergraduate, he was named Best Young Chef in the Northeast region by the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, the world’s oldest gastronomic society. He’s now the associate dean of culinary relations and special projects at the College of Food Innovation & Technology at Johnson & Wales.
“I’ve grown to love this state and its food scene,” he said, and based on his list, one can understand why.
1. Lobster Rolls
“I don’t want to steal any thunder away from Maine … but the lobster roll is prominent here in Rhode Island,” he said. You can expect to be asked, “Cold or hot?” when ordering one. It’s either cold mayo-based salad with diced onion, celery, celery salt, and herbs on a buttered split-top bun, or warm meat in butter served on a toasted split-top bun.
2. Clam Chowder
The Rhode Island chowder isn’t red like Manhattan and not creamy like New England. It’s a rich but clear clam broth or stock with potatoes, onions, and, of course, chopped clam.
3. Doughboys and Clam Cakes
The former is a light, fluffy fried dough, sprinkled with cinnamon sugar or powdered sugar. The latter is the savory counterpart, “like a clam doughnut,” made with chopped clams folded into the batter, then scooped into a fryer.
“You usually get three, six, or nine clam cakes,” Delle Donne said, “and a cup of chowder with that. That’s the summertime staple in Rhode Island.” Try the clam cakes at Aunt Carrie’s or Monahan’s in Narragansett.
4. Stuffies
There are clams, and there are quahogs. The latter are larger, meatier, hard-shell clams and the required variety for stuffies. To make one, the meat is steamed and chopped, then mixed with bread crumbs, Portuguese chorizo, mirepoix (onion, celery, carrot), lemon, and hot sauce to make a wet stuffing. It’s scooped back into the shells and baked until the top is crispy.
5. Hot Wieners
Also known as New York System wieners, they are made with beef, veal, and pork, and served on a split-top bun, with yellow mustard, raw onion, celery salt, and a proprietary meat sauce, “reminiscent of a chili,” Delle Donne said. In Providence’s Olneyville neighborhood, “people get them six or seven at a time, and the servers will line them up balanced along their arms.”
While the wieners are made in Rhode Island, the name was a marketing ploy intended to make customers associate them with the famous Coney Island dogs in New York.
6. Johnnycakes
This flatbread, which almost resembles a pancake, is made with cornmeal batter and has its roots in Native American culture. Before the arrival of European settlers, the Pequot and Narragansett Indians of the region were growing corn and using cornmeal in cooking. The modern johnnycake is ubiquitous in Rhode Island and can be sweet or savory. “You can get a johnnycake alongside any pancake or any other sweet breakfast item either served with butter and syrup or with a poached egg on top.” Try them at Jigger’s Diner in East Greenwich.
7. Coffee Milk
The official state drink is this glass of cold milk flavored with a sweet coffee syrup. Delle Donne said its roots lie in Italian and Portuguese immigrant culture, “a way for them to extend their spent coffee grounds.” You can find it in diners, roadside stands, and supermarkets. The Autocrat syrup brand dominates the market, but Dave’s Coffee in Charlestown and Providence makes and bottles its own.
8. Coffee Cabinet
This play off coffee milk is more a milkshake or malt. “From folklore, the soda jerk making it would keep his coffee syrup in the cabinet.” Add ice cream to the coffee milk, blend it in a metal canister, and serve it in a tall glass. He recommends Newport Creamery, which has 10 locations.
9. Frozen Lemonade
There is no blender involved. They take lemonade and start to freeze it while churning it in a machine to keep the consistency loose. It’s more watery than an Italian granita. Del’s Lemonade is most popular and has crossed state lines, and Mr. Lemon serves a variety of flavors.
10. Pizza Strips
Bakery-style focaccia-like bread topped with garlicky tomato sauce (usually cheeseless), cut in strips, and served either cold or warm. “This was a way for either day-old bread or bread that wasn’t moving in the bakery to be served as more of a meal,” Delle Donne said.
This article was originally published in American Essence magazine.
